In March 2023 I headed out to Samoa for a weeklong family gathering in Upolu, the country’s main island. Then once much of the family returned home, myself and my parents visited Samoa’s other main island, Savai’i. For me it was to explore a place I’d not been before, and for my parents it was to trace back some of our family heritage by finding a family cemetery.

Savai’i is the largest island in the Samoan Islands chain, both in size and height, and is the sixth largest Polynesian island after the 3 New Zealand Islands and two of the Hawaiian islands. Savai’i is more traditional than Upolu with a more relaxed feel. There is also no airport on the island, so arrival must be via boat, usually the car ferry.

Ferry to Savai’i

There are two ferrys to Savai’i, a small one and a larger one. On our trip over from Upolu Island, was in the small ferry. It’s the first car ferry I’ve ever had to reverse onto it, but I was guided on by helpful workers. This ferry had no sitting area, so we stayed in the car without aircon. We did find a spot at the edge of the deck where we could feel the wind. On the way back, we were on the larger ferry and locked up the car and went to sit in the airconditioned passenger seating area.

On the slow chug of the ferry, we passed the small islands of Manono and Apolima. The trip over on the small ferry took 90 minutes, while the larger one took about an hour.

Beach Fale

Fale in Samoan means ‘building’, and they are very common on the islands. The original fales were simple structures made from posts and a thatched roof. These days they’ve been modernised with concrete floors and corrugated iron roofs. Beach Fales are common ways for families to make extra money by renting them out to visitors. Mine had woven shields on the back half and tarpaulin sheets on the ocean facing half. While these provide some privacy, they can block the elements, especially during heavy winds or storms. The woven panels when partially drawn are good for allowing air flow on the usually steamy island nights.

Inside mine were two beds, one with a mattress to sleep on, the other to put my bags on, plus a small table, a chair and most importantly, a mosquito net. For convenience, mine also had a light and a power plug. While not for some – my parents stayed in a resort up the road – I like trying new things, and on most days the views out the front at high tide were amazing. From time to time, I’d even see a turtle popping it’s head out of the water.

Breakfast and dinner are both included in accommodation, all traditional fare, and on the last night, there were lobster tails, local BBQ, a cooked salad with fried taro and potato.

Saleaula Lava Fields

On the 3rd of August, 1905, molten lava began blowing from the ground from Mt Matavanu. It spilled over the crater’s rim filling a deep river valley leading to the flat Saleaula coastal plain, overwhelming part of Saleaula Village. A year later and much of the coastal plain had been covered, the lagoon had been filled, a vertical basalt cliff had built up over the coral reef, and five villages with their adjacent farming land had been buried. The eruption continued for a total of 6 years.

One of the buildings that was hit by the lava was the London Missionary Church, the remains still standing.

Some things didn’t succumb to the lava, like the Virgin’s Grave. Some say it belonged to a virgin daughter of a high chieftain, while others say it belonged to a virgin nun. In either case, the reasoning why the lava went around the grave instead of over was because the girl was so pure.

Safotu Congregational Christian Church of Samoa

This church, in the north western corner of Savai’i, is known for being the last church built from crushed coral. Coral was used to build many things in Samoa, from roads to buildings. Crushed to a fine sand, it was mixed with limestone to make a concrete. It’s been painted within the last few years to look almost new.

Flying Foxes

There is a species of flying fox in Samoa known as the Pe’a, which can also be found on Fiji and American Samoa. They are a hunted species, often eaten on special occasions by the locals.

Pe’a Pe’a Cave

The cave is a lava tube from around the time of the First World War, when lava rushed through the area burning through whatever was here then hardening into a long tunnel. Steps lead down into the cave which then widens, running for 50m or so before the roof drops to low to walk under. I stopped there, but apparently the cave goes for a kilometre to the ocean, but can be too narrow to get through in places. The name of the cave is from the Pe’a Pe’a bird which nests in and around the cave. We saw one flying circles around the end of the cave.

Alofa’aga Blowholes

These are also known as the Taga Blowholes you must pass Taga villageto get to the blowholes and pay WST5 to use the land. Here, lava flows have created a series of tubes connecting a flat clifftop of lava rock with the ocean below. Waves breaking against the lower end of the lava tubes push water at high pressure up through the tubes, sending spray followed by fountains into the air every few seconds. There are many of these along this area near the ancient village of Fagaloa.

Afu Aau Waterfall

The waterfall was WST10 to go into as it is on Palauli land. There are three parts to the falls, the two minor falls along the track, and the main one at the end. There is a legend that a giant named Mafane lived near the Palauli village. Over time he turned into a mountain that erupted forming a crater for water. Twenty-five streams run from the crater – the 25 warriors of Mafane’s battalion – feeding 7 rivers, one of which runs down the Afu Aau waterfalls. The pool was large and two of us from the tour swam in it, climbing up the rocks behind the waterfall and jumping in the pool. Note, there are rocks in the pool, so it’s suggested to be careful when jumping. The pool was cool and crisp, great in the heat of the day, although the steps to get out were slippery. Some girls in the next fale from me went a few days after we did, and the waterfall wasn’t flowing. The could still swim in the pool though.

John Williams Memorial

Samoa is a christian society with over 100 churches on the islands and strict holy day views with church services important. John Williams was a British missionary who visited many of the island chains throughout the Pacific bringing the word of christianity. The first was one of the islands of French Polynesia, before he moved on to the Cook Islands and many others. He arrived in Samoa in 1830 to meet with the then high chief who accepted christianity immediately. Then, with the aid of local translators he created the first bibles for the Pacific Islands. Unfortunately, on arriving in the New Hebrides, now known as Vanuatu, he was killed and eaten by cannibals. This monument was built in his honour and stands on the eastern shore of Savai’i.

Matautu Bay Snorkelling

I’d brought my own snorkelling gear so I wanted to get in amongst the coral at some point on my Samoan explorations. I found the only Dive company on the island – Dive Savai’i Samoa – and booked a trip. Because of the small numbers, there were three separate groups on the boat, snorkelers, divers training for their accreditation and an accredited diver. Each of the three groups had a guide/instructor. They took us out to three separate locations around Matautu Bay. The one thing I was missing was an underwater camera, as mine had died in Rarotonga and new ones were quite expensive.

At our first stop, we swum behind the guide along the length of a coral reef with many fish, and to my surprise many turtles, some sleeping around the coral, others just out for an afternoon swim. The second spot was near an old ship wreak, the John Williams 5 apparently, but I was unable to find any information online about it. And while we were there, a turtle came to visit, eating little squares of Papaya skin we threw to it. Last stop was the coral garden, but we had to be careful, as some areas were quite shallow. Overall, a great day out on and in the water.

Cemetery of Distant Relatives

One of the main reasons to come to Savai’i was to track down our family’s burial ground so dad could continue his work crafting the family history. We were shown the family houses in the Manase village close to where we were staying, and found that the cemetery was up on the hill. Unfortunately, with dad’s health he’s unable to climb a hill in the heat, but I was able to talk to the woman who owns my fale and tell her our story. In true Samoan style, she was off next door to organise a 4 x 4 vehicle to take us up there. An hour later we were being driven up a crazy 4 x 4 track, bobbing madly back and forth as it went. Before long we came out at the cemetery where they were preparing a grave for a funeral at the end of our stay. There were only headstones there, but they dated back more than 100 years to Dad’s adopted father’s parents and kin. Later, I was come to learn that the owner of my fale is also a distant relative.

Impressions

Savai’i Island is less built up than Upolu Island and there is less there to do and see. But we still managed to fill out time and enjoyed the more relaxing week of our stay.

Then after the week, we were back to Apia on Upolu Island for a few more days.

The World Wanderer

In March 2023, myself and 14 members of my extended family flew out to the Island of Upolu in Samoa for a family gathering and to bring the ashes of my grandfather home. We all set up our base in Apia, the capital of Samoa and the largest city on Upolu.

Upolu is the main island of the Samoa, previously known as Western Samoa to differentiate it from American Samoa which separated in 1899. While not the largest island of the chain, Upolu has the highest population.

Apia

Apia is a mad mash of worlds. On one hand, there are wondrous resorts, restaurants and churches. On the other there are hovel markets, lines of shops, reminisant of south east Asia selling all manner of trinkets and knicknacks, sidewalk stalls, and so many taxis. Near the heart of the Apia is the clocktower.

Around the bay from the resorts is the marina, with many ships and small boats docked. There’s also a more upmarket bar and restaurant area called The Edge and has views over the marina, the bay and Apia.

After a couple of choice cocktails during happy hour, we walked five minutes down the road to one of the best restuarants on the island, Paddles, stopping to admire the lights of Apia across the bay.

Garden Fale

While the other 14 members of my extended family stayed at a large and somewhat expensive resort, I went for the more local style at another resort a couple of kilometres away. And instead of an air conditioned room with TV, bar fridge, toilet and shower etc, I chose a garden fale. The fale is literally just a room with a roof and woven shades on each side pulled down for privacy and protection from the elements. It’s hot inside, but by partially pulling up some of the shades, a draft can pass through. Inside there is just a pair of mattresses on the floor, mosquito netting on each, a lockable safety box, a light and a pair of power outlets. This was my first experience with a fale of the kind, but not my last. It was a fun and sweaty experience, that I enjoyed, although in this case I only stayed two nights instead of the nine I’d booked due to bed bugs.

Fiafia Night

The resort where my extended family were staying hosts a Fiafia every Wednesday, so we decided to take part in this cultural event. There is much dancing and singing by our hosts, and a large buffet dinner with suckling pork on the menu. Someone even leaked to the crew that there was a birthday and they dragged my sister up to present her with a cake.

Then once the singing and dancing inside was done, we were herded outside for the fire show. An enjoyable experience.

Sua Ocean Trench

Fifteen people is a lot to transport around the island, especially if the only people mover we could rent was a 12 seater. We decided to split the group and five of us headed on a road trip across and around the island to the To-Sua, which in samoan means ‘giant swimming hole’. It has salt water flowing in from one side, and at high tide, you can climb down the crazy lader and swim in it. A great day out for the WST20 entry fee.

Waterfalls

On the way to and from the Sua Ocean Trench, we passed five waterfalls:

Papapapai Falls
In the centre of Upolu are the tallest falls in Samoa dropping 100m into a volcanic crater. There is a carpark on the side of the road and a short 10m trail through the the grass to the best views . There was no charge for this waterfall.

Togitogiga Waterfall
On the south side of Upolu is O le Pupu-Pue National Park, we followed a short road to a carpark. Then a short fairly flat 200m walk along a rocky track leads to a park with fales, a bbq, toilets and two pools, one above and one below the falls. The falls aren’t large, but gush down into the lower pool. It’s known to have been a place where great warriors of Samoa’s past swam. Four days later, we drove out to have another look with a different group, only to find that the falls were dry. How quickly things change. These falls are also free to visit.

Sopoaga Falls
Near the Sua Ocean Trench, a well manicured garden surrounds a viewing platform looking across a river basin to the falls. Cost to enter this area is WST10, so only I checked it out, my family members deciding to sit this one out. While not as impressive as Papapapai Falls, the garden area is a place you could spend an hour chilling over a picnic lunch or similar. The river valley flowing away from the waterfall is also rather impressive, with great green walls disappearing into the distance.

Fuipisia Falls
These 55m tall jungle falls are apparently spectacular, but at WST20 it was too rich for us to look at for a few minute viewing. This was however, the only waterfalls our other contingent stopped at, talking the land owner into dropping the price to WST10. Photo courtesy of them.

Falefa Falls
Near the north side of the island again, the final waterfall we visited was right by the road, and we stopped quickly to check it out. It’s only a short falls, with a river continuing to run out to sea, but apparently you can swim in it. We didn’t stop at the official garden entrance, but at the side looking down at it. But as we looked, a man came out of a fale 20m behind us and charged us WST5 to view it.

Parase’ea Sliding Rocks

Not far out of Apia are the Parase’ea Sliding Rocks. It’s one of those redundant double names like East Timor, which in East Timorese is literally East East. Parase’ea means ‘sliding rocks’ in Samoan. There are a trio of small waterfalls, all with somewhat smooth rocks that can be slid down into a pool at the bottom. Entry fee is WST5 each.

The top falls were the shortest and easiest to slide down (photo not included). The second and main slide is more dramatic and when you come down the 100 or so steps to the sliding rocks it’s the first you come to. The far side is the correct side, due to there being a deep enough pool. It’s nerve-racking sitting at the top and pushing yourself over, but it ends quickly enough with a splash at the bottom.

The bottom one has two parts. I called the first part the devil’s throat as it reminded me of the Iguazu Falls in South America. Sliding down into the pool surrounded by water from three sides.

Then pushing up onto a lip and sliding down the next on the left side, gaining air at the end before dropping into a pool.

Then, once we were done, we climbed back to the carpark where there are great views down over Apia.

Robert Louis Stevenson Museum

Robert Louis Stevenson was a British writer born in 1850 who wrote such classics as Treasure Island and Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. Suffering from health problems for most of his life, he decided to move to the Samoa in 1889 where the climate greatly helped his condition. In 1890 he purchased land and had a large 2-story house built, the first in the country. He would die here four years later, but not before becoming a beloved advocate of the Samoan people.

During the last days of my stay, I caught a taxi to his house, which has since been converted into a museum. I took the tour and heard tales of him, his wife, her 2 children from her previous marriage, and his mother.

On his sudden death in 1893, Samoans stood a vigil over his body for the night, before clearing a way to the top of the hill nearby where they carried his body, and laid it to rest. After the tour, I set off up a trail to the top of that hill. There are two paths, the short steep one, and the long, not so steep one. I climbed the short one, and dripping heavily with sweat in the 32º heat, stopped several times to catch my breath and check out the view.

I finally reached the top where I found his resting place and a cool breeze.

There were excellent views back down to his house and the surrounding area. When I was done, I decided to take the longer route back down again, which was certainly a lot longer and less step, along with being fairly muddy.

Impressions

Upolu wasn’t what I was expecting, especially after my month in Rarotonga a year ago. The number of cars racing everywhere, dozens of taxis taking people back and forth for next to nothing, the mass of people in Apia, then the quieter areas all over the rest of the island. The sheer number of Fales and villages was all an experience, especially in the 32 degree heat. The people are generally friendly wherever you go and the atmosphere is very laid back. It was a good time to see a new country, and spend time with the extended family while we scattered the ashes in the sea outside where my grandfather grew up.

The World Wanderer