Tag Archives: Hike

Burchell Trail – Brisbane Ranges National Park – Victoria

The Brisbane Ranges National Park is approximately 50km North West of Melbourne in Victoria.

The Burchell Trail is a linear 38km trail that can be completed over 3 days, although I only consider the first and last days as half days due to their shortness. If there was a centrally located camping spot I would do it in only two days.

wpid-dscn0620-2012-12-3-09-08.jpg

Day 1 – Boar Gully to Little River – 10.5km

Today the temperatures rose into the low 30s – thankfully not the 40 degree heat from yesterday – and the afternoon looked to have a shower or two. Because of the shortness of the day and the late sunset I wasn’t in a hurry to get started. I left the caravan park and headed into Bacchus Marsh to kill some time and wait out the heat of the day.

In the early afternoon, I drove to the Brisbane Ranges. Unlike the Grampians, which stand out against the plains with their jagged teeth, the Brisbane Ranges aren’t visible at all. I found my way to the Boar Gully camping ground and killed some more time putting together my food from the stash in my van. By mid-afternoon I was ready to go.

Most of the Brisbane Ranges is dry Eucalyptus forest and the trail follows either a wide dirt 4WD track or a two lane dirt road. I followed the trail as it meandered through the ranges for several kilometres going back and forth between the two different track types until it came to hill. If I sound a little excited, it’s because the hill was a change from the fairly flat and monotonous terrain. I climbed the other side and again wandered through the forest via the trail until it came out at a road that then opened the Little River Camping Ground. The weather had showered briefly during the afternoon, and was looking to grow worse. I pitched the tent, cooked dinner and set down for the night.

Day 2 – Little River to Old Mill – 17.5km

I was awakened by storms twice during the night. Once when I had just dropped off to sleep and again at about 3am. I had prepared the tent for heavy rain and watched as the water rolled down the outer sheet. It was too noisy to sleep, so as I waited for the storms to recede I read and watched for potential tent flooding. Thankfully, very little water got into the tent.

With the forecast today for high 20s, I packed up and headed out. The first tricky part was deciding what trail to follow. There was no marker at the camping ground telling you which way to go. I checked the map, and it suggested I follow the gorge to the left, so I picked one of the handful of trails and followed it along. Eventually I did find a marker several hundred metres away.

wpid-dscn0618-2012-12-3-09-08.jpg

The gorge was something different from yesterday and had a water running in it – no doubt from the heavy rains. I cross-crossed it for a kilometre until the trail climbed a hill to a road which then meandered through the forest again with the occasional small hill. Through the trees I caught the occasional view of plains towards Melbourne but nothing worth taking a photo of.

The trail changed in the early afternoon, heading downhill towards the Lower Stony Creek Reservoir. It headed down along a rocky trail – my first of this hike. After a time, I came to a part of the trail that was cordoned off by a red mesh fence and a sign: “Track Closed”. Apparently there had been some flooding and fire damage to this section. With few choices, I climbed the fence and continued. Along the trail, there were four cobbled fords on the path that were overflowing with quick flowing water from the reservoir. While I wouldn’t have recommended casual walkers try to cross, the crossings shouldn’t cause experienced walkers much issue. I found my way across each of them and while the bottoms of my boots got wet, they weren’t sodden, so I continued. On the other side, I came to the reservoir and stopped for lunch – and yes, it was worth taking a photo…

wpid-dscn0626-2012-12-3-09-08.jpg

After lunch, I climbed the hill along the reservoir road to a main road – a sealed one! – then across and along a dirt road for a few km until the camping ground appeared. Again, another nicely set out campsite. I lay my tent out in the sun to dry and hung out for the rest of the day, occasionally hearing people at the Fridays Camping Ground 500m down the hill. Fridays is the finishing point tomorrow, the walk taking me on a 10km round trip of the end of the National Park and bringing me back.

Day 3 – Old Mill to Fridays

I woke in the morning to rain, again. It let up long enough for me to cook breakfast and break camp. I headed uphill along the 4WD trail, across a dirt road and along another 4WD trail. The rest of the trail wandered through the National park, and for the most part was flat. Occasionally, it had a short dip and climb back up again. At one point, it walked along the side of a shallow gorge, then back to more of the same.

This last part of the national park was once a gold mining area, and near the end of the trail, I began to see some signs discussing areas where the mining had occurred. Not long after, I came out to the road a short distance from Fridays Camping Ground. The trail still had 500m to go and headed into the forest again. I guess I could have walked the 100m up the road to the end, but I like to finish things, so headed on. For half of the remaining trail, it headed downhill to suddenly start climbing back to Fridays. I honestly didn’t see the point – perhaps something happens seasonally here, but it seemed more like a, ‘go on, make them climb one last hill’ part of the hike.

I stopped for lunch at Fridays, happy to be finished then headed out along the wide road on my way back to the Pointy Brick – 18km or so away. When I got to the sealed road I got a lift 10km to a junction by a guy who used to do a lot of hiking in his younger days. From there there was only 4km walk along sealed roads to the Pointy Brick and the drive back to Bacchus Marsh.

I was disappointed with the Burchell Trail. It’s not a terribly exciting walk and there are few sights to see and thus the lack of photos. Also, while the topographic map is of very high quality, the poorly defined trail markings had me spending too much time wandering along trails hoping to find the next marker. Having a marker point into an intersection but not defining which way to follow is just frustrating.

On the plus side, it did provide a useful training hike for my coming 8 day hike in Tasmania, but I would not recommend this one beyond that.

Next, I have a few days off in Melbourne to visit friends and then off to Tasmania and a trip down the east side.

The Lone Trail Wanderer.

Mt Gar, Briggs Bluff Traverse – The Grampians

Of the three multi-day hikes in The Grampians, the Briggs Bluff Mount Gar Traverse was my second choice. Like the Major Mitchell Plateau, it’s only an overnight hike.
While there are several ways to do the hike, I decided on a more direct route between the two – park the Pointy Brick at one end, walk to the other end and hitch/walk back. It could be done in one very long day, but for the enjoyment, I decided to do it in two – to give me more time to check out the wonders. Well it wasn’t to turn out that way…

I drove the long way to the Rose’s Gap to avoid all the dirt roads and parked the Pointy Brick at the car park. I donned my pack and headed off. The initial walk is 1.3km to the Beehive Falls and is a flat and wide dirt track. Once you reach the falls – which is only a trickle – the track changes.

wpid-dscn0574-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

As I walked, I could make out the wind blown rocks above.

wpid-dscn0569-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

The track then became a rock ledge climb. It wasn’t hard and in short order I made it to the top of the initial cliffs.

wpid-dscn0580-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

Undulating ground almost like a plateau spread out before me, with the jagged teeth of the peaks across from me.
wpid-dscn0582-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

I stopped for lunch and to dry off as the day had started pretty warmly. After lunch I walked along the plateau following yellow arrows and the occasional cairn.

wpid-dscn0587-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

It’s easy to lose the trail as lines of flat rocks go off in different directions. At a certain point the trail heads towards one of the jagged peaks and climbs around the side of it. I gained a bit of respite as it clouded over and became cooler. From the higher vantage, I could see it was raining along the plains, but by the movement of the clouds, the rain didn’t appear to be heading towards the mountains just yet.

I reached a turn off to Briggs Bluff, the northern most section of The Difficult Range – Mt Gar is also known as Mt Difficult. I decided to walk to the bluff without my pack, so hid it in a small cave…

wpid-dscn0588-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

…more to protect it from sudden weather changes than rampaging wallabies. An older German couple had just come back from the Bluff, so I stopped and chatted to them about the rest of the walk before climbing the 1.4km to the top of the bluff. The bluff is purely rocky ground, with plentiful steep climbs.

wpid-dscn0592-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

I crested the top and sat for a while looking out across Victoria which was being lashed with rain. I headed back when I noticed that the rain was on its way towards the range. I had just arrived back at my pack when a small scattering of rain started. I put on my pack cover and headed out. It was only 3.4km to the wilderness camp.

Across the top of the traverse it seemed that the only way is up. If I wasn’t climbing a short steep peak I had a long slow climb along the plateau. The rain didn’t last long and I made my way across the spectacular low ridge line towards Mt Gar. It rained again briefly and looking out west, a lot more looked to be on its way. It was only an additional 4km from the camp to the base of the range so I decided to forego the camping.

I did stop at the Mt Gar Wilderness camp, leaving my pack under the protection of a Grass Tree man.

wpid-dscn0596-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

I climbed the rocky face of Mt Gar, similar to Briggs Bluff, there were steep rocky walls to climb, but not difficult as the name would suggest. At the top, spectacular 360 degree views…

wpid-dscn0602-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

…including that of Lake Wartook.

wpid-dscn0597-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

With the rain due in short order, I hurried back down to my pack and continued. The rain began and didn’t stop for an hour. 4km will generally take an hour to walk on a fairly flat trail, but this trail was anything but flat, and it continued climbing slowly.

It climbed around the side of some of the steep rocky peaks with thin trails and plentiful boulders to climb.

wpid-dscn0604-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

I took care because of the rain, but found my boots didn’t slip much. A hiker must trust his boots. If they can grip a 45-50 degree angled rock they’re great. If they can do that in the wet as well, they’re brilliant. Mine are brilliant. I love my boots.

I continued meandering around the cliffs, heading downwards occasionally only to find I had to climb again. At some places I had to crawl through low gaps in rocks, in others I had to take the pack off and haul it after me.

wpid-dscn0607-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

Eventually the rain ended and the track decided it had had enough as well and headed down. I had to take care as there were several steep rocky walls I had to scramble down on my butt, and as the trail grew slowly less steep, I came to the bottom, a place known as the wind cave.

wpid-dscn0611-2012-11-27-13-50.jpg

It was only 500m to the road and it I don’t get a ride, 6km along a bitumen to my van.

At the bottom I met up with the German couple, who were sitting around a fire. They’d seen only one car on the road and had walked back – although they didn’t have full packs to walk with. They graciously offered me a lift to the Pointy Brick which I accepted. I arrived back at the caravan park exhausted and sore. I’m glad I decided not to camp on the range as violent electrical storms wracked the Grampians that night with plentiful rain.

After a couple of rest days, I’m heading off to the Brisbane Ranges near Melbourne to walk the Burchell Trail – a three day hike.

The Lone Trail Wanderer

The Pinnacle – The Grampians

After finishing the Major Mitchell Plateau walk in the heat yesterday, I planned to do a short walk and see some of the sites of the Grampians without a pack. I headed off to Wonderland – the central portion of the Grampians where there are plentiful walks.

The car park is not far from Hall’s Gap and my intention was to walk up the Grand Canyon – a brief 100m climb through a canyon of rock.

wpid-dscn0534-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

It was a fair struggle up the rocks in the heat – 31 degrees today – but the formations were awesome. When I came to a junction that offered The Pinnacle for just another 2km walk, I took the option (like I could have resisted!).

wpid-dscn0531-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

The climb from there was arduous and didn’t seem to end, I passed various different rock formations and small caves…

wpid-dscn0542-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

…resting like many other people were, in whatever shade I could find. In the end, it was not the steepness of the climb, but the heat that was the killer, sucking the energy from me as I climbed.

The Pinnacle is fenced off pinnacle of rock…

wpid-dscn0556-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

…with brilliant reviews of the surrounding area including down into Hall’s Gap…

wpid-dscn0560-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

…and along the ranges.

wpid-dscn0558-2012-11-26-09-20.jpg

While the walk back was all downhill and a lot easier. I’m am still thankful for the pool at the caravan park…

The Lone Trail Wanderer

Major Mitchell Plateau – The Grampians

The Grampians in West Victoria are a chain of mountains at the end of the Great Dividing Range which starts in Northern Queensland. It includes the Main Range National Park where I have enjoyed walking in South East Queensland and have documented elsewhere on this site.

The Major Mitchell Plateau is one of the handful of overnight hikes in the National Park and like the other two, is only an overnight hike. The Plateau is not a linear hike, meaning the beginning is not the end. I’m hoping to hitch a ride back to the beginning once I’m done. If I can’t, I’ll walk the 12km along the road back.

Day 1
wpid-dscn0460-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

The Major Mitchell Plateau begins at the Grampians Tourist road – the main road heading through the Grampians. The car park is about 10km south of Hall’s Gap. After a brief downhill, the trail begins its slow steady climb along a dirt track towards the Mount Williams car park with plentiful wild flowers along its length.

wpid-dscn0470-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

There are several creeks near the bottom where floods have destroyed the footbridges.

wpid-dscn0476-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

As you climb, you can see the jagged ridge line of the Serra Range across the valley.

wpid-dscn0478-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

I passed Cathedral Rock and continued on the steady climb, walking around the edge of a steep incline and passing many a rocky formation until I arrived at the car park. It was a warm day, so I took a break for lunch.

The climb to the summit is along a bitumen road at a brutally steep grade. The first couple of hundred metres are the worst and it evens out a little above that, but only a little. They describe the climb as relentless. I agree. I eventually made it to the summit with 360 degree views of the Grampians…

wpid-dscn0487-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

…and inland Victoria.

wpid-dscn0491-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

It was early in the afternoon, so I decided to ‘boots off and relax’ for a bit.

I eventually followed the trail to a radio tower then downhill towards a series of four knolls and finally down a very steep rocky path that sunk below the tree line…

wpid-dscn0499-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

…which bottomed out at a small forest at the base of the plateau cliffs called Boundary Gap. I rested for a moment to prepare for the coming steep climb. And it was steep. I climbed through the forest until I broke the tree line and continued up a rocky path to the base of the rocky cliff faces, pausing frequently to catch my breath. The trail lead me scrambling through rocks up through the cliff face, ledge to ledge until I finally struggled over the edge.

wpid-dscn0504-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

The top of the plateau has a lot of flat cascading rocks and plentiful hardy plants. As I walked the final kilometre to the camp, I came across an echidna with its head buried in an ant nest.

Just before sun went down and I retired to sleep, I noted the sky was red. Red at night shepherd’s delight.

Day 2

It was warm this morning when I awakened. I poked my head out of the tent and the sky was red. Red in the morning, shepherd’s warning. Now that’s confusing. Red at night AND in the morning?? I dunno. A delightful warning? Oh ho ho ho, it’s gonna rain!

After breakfast it started to spit. I don’t mind hiking in the rain, I just prefer to break camp first. The sky allowed me to pack and in short order I was ready to go. The trail headed further along the plateau’s undulating top, moving through rocky areas and skirting the often spiny plants that lived up here.

wpid-dscn0507-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

The path meandered along the top of the eastern cliff line and I stopped from time to time to stare out across the plains of Western Victoria spread hundreds of metres below. I had to brace myself as I stood there. While the wind was not strong enough to push me off the edge, I didn’t want to be party to a freak gust.

Across the top of the plateau, there are plentiful flat stony areas and it could be rather confusing to navigate. However, apart from the occasional yellow arrow pointing the way, there were cairns that helped me navigate my way. The rain did not stay away for long, but it was slight and eventually stopped.

wpid-dscn0514-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

At the end of the plateau there were a pair of cairns. I had been told that the descent was rather steep, but when I approached the edge it appeared fairly sedate. I descended to a ridge line that lead me to an unnamed peak where I stopped for a break and stared down the length of the Serra Range in all its glory. The sun finally poked its head out of the clouds and would cause the most annoyance; the day was forecast to be 33 degrees today.

wpid-dscn0521-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

The descent from unnamed peak, however, was a lot steeper and I had to take care as I climbed down, not only for the potentially slippery roots and stones, but also the gusting winds. I made my way down as the temperatures soared and the cool breeze became a hot wind.

wpid-dscn0523-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

At the base of the peak the trail met a 4WD track and a brief area of open grassy land. The trail soon converged with a track known as the Stockyard Track which continued on up a knoll to a former helipad site.

The rough track continued and I headed down the steep other side of the knoll towards a steep peak that stood out from the trail.

wpid-dscn0526-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

In the heat, I hoped that the trail didn’t want me to climb it and as I followed it went around and between a pair of peaks before heading towards the road. I picked my way along the trail for another couple of kilometres until it finally ended at the road. I changed my sweat drenched shirt and began the 12km trip back to the The Pointy Brick. After only 2 minutes I was picked up by an older couple. He had hiked the plateau on numerous occasions and others had picked him up when walking to the end. The Code of the Hiker. I was thankful.

wpid-dscn0458-2012-11-24-18-01.jpg

Next, I’m doing an overnight hike around Mt Gar, still in the Grampians. It is also known as Mt Difficult. I hope it doesn’t live up to its name.

The Lone Trail Wanderer

Kangaroo Island – South Australia

Adelaide to Kangaroo Island to West K.I. Caravan Park

The road trip to Kangaroo Island was a mad 90 minute dash from Adelaide to Cape Jervis. Getting out of Adelaide was the hard part, it seemed like the city might not wish me to leave. A water main had stopped traffic on the Main South Road, and when I took an alternative, a car broke down right in front of me. Adelaide has a southern Expressway, but it’s one way only and time dependant as to which way. In the afternoons, you can only use to to get into the city, so I had to take the alternate route was fairly quick .

I raced towards the cape – the most southern point of mainland South Australia – passing through a town with a name I’m sure my brother would love: Myponga. I didn’t smell at all…

wpid-dscn0300-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

As I raced towards the cape, I could see the ferry growing closer. I made it to the car park with 10 minutes to spare before we were loaded onto the ferry.

wpid-dscn0306-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

The ferry was a 45 minute ride to Kangaroo Island, and because of a pair of stock trucks on board, it smelled like cows. It arrives at the eastern end of the island and I had to get to the other end where I was staying, some 140km away. Yup, it’s a pretty big island.

wpid-dscn0313-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

I was warned to be careful when driving at night or in the morning, as wildlife like to hang out on the road. I got to the caravan park without running anything over, but saw far more roadkill than I would have liked to.

Flinders Chase and Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area

wpid-dscn0324-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

Ravine des Casoars

The western end of the island is a National Park and has many different walks and things to see. I chose the Ravine des Casoars hike, one of the hardest on the island. The start of the walk is about 45km from the camping ground and a two-thirds of that is over a very dusty dirt road with many areas of corrugation. This was slow going and took me over an hour to get to the site. I did stop briefly to watch a couple of Goanna’s fighting…

wpid-dscn0326-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

The walk itself is along the side of a ravine, then drops down into the ravine to walk out to the beach. At the beach, there is golden sand and interconnecting limestone caves.

The walk itself was not difficult, but crossed several different types of terrain, rocks, stony ground, dirt and sand. The trail cut through trees for much of its way…

wpid-dscn0330-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

…until it headed down into the ravine and then followed a stream out almost to the sea. One of the hardest parts was walking along the sand bank while trying to avoid falling in the water. There were plentiful Goannas along the trail, some more than a foot long, and far too many flies.

wpid-dscn0339-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

The azure blue of the sea was lovely against the golden sand. The rock formations along the side were amazing. Unfortunately, I didn’t know about the caves until I was there and hadn’t brought a torch with me – something I will remember to bring on every short hike from now on.

wpid-dscn0348-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

The caves were amazing, and disappeared into the darkness, some of them formed tunnels that connected with some of the other caves. If I had a torch and I would have explored further.

Admiral’s Arch

At the the southern most tip of the National Park…
wpid-dscn0368-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

‘’’is the Admiral’s Arch. A natural arch of rock…

wpid-dscn0378-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

Near the arch were several New Zealand Fur Seals. If I was here a couple of weeks later, many more would have been here. They are all off out at sea mating, apparently.

wpid-dscn0375-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

Remarkable Rocks

Not far from the Admiral’s Arch are the remarkable rocks.

wpid-dscn0389-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

200 million years ago, a magma boil broke the surface and cooled. Over the millions of years, the rocks have been eroded leaving the unusual collection of massive rocks. The look like an artist created them. Remarkable, really.

wpid-dscn0390-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

Seal Bay Conservation Park

Along the south coast of Kangaroo Island is Seal Bay Conservation Park.

Walking along a long boardwalk, you can get right down near the Australian Sea Lions that have come to the shore to sleep .

wpid-dscn0409-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

There is also the skeleton of a hump backed whale along the boardwalk also.

wpid-dscn0406-2012-11-19-19-17.jpg

Tomorrow, I head back to the mainland to Naracoorte for some Adventure Caving.

The relaxed on an island Lone Trail Wanderer

Yurrebilla Trail – 3 Days in the Adelaide Hills

The Yurrebilla Trail meanders its way through the Adelaide Hills and connects several different parks along it’s length. The 54 km walk crosses each of the parks and walks along the roads or properties that connect them. The hike can be completed in 5 days, but I decided to walk it in three, aiming to put in the biggest slog on day two as I wished to be back in Adelaide early on Saturday for my birthday dinner with my friends.

Day 1 – Bel Air National Park – Cleland Conservation Park

I parked The Pointy Brick (my van) at the end of the trail and walked 10 minutes to the nearest bus stop. After 25 minutes into Adelaide CBD, I walked to the train station and caught the train to Bel Air. 20 minutes later I walked into the Bel Air National park, the beginning of the Yurrebilla Trail.

wpid-dscn0163-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

As I left the train, I was not the only one donning a hiking pack. It looked like a class of schools girls and their class leader was also walking some of the trail. From experience, school girl groups tend to make a lot of noise, so I was determined to put some distance between us. The Bel Air National Park is a maze of tracks, and while the Yurrebilla Trail is pretty well marked,

wpid-dscn0167-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

there are a lot of tracks and it was confusing at some intersections. I soon came to Playford Lake and skirted around the edge, following the trail.

wpid-dscn0168-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I continued up a creek trail which turned from stones to dirt. The trail led to echo tunnel, a water flow tunnel that was too short for me to stand to my full 189cm and with a pack on my back, it was even hard to stoop to get through. I had to walk stooped along the water channel – which was dry – to get to the other end.

wpid-dscn0179-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

Out of the tunnel, the real trail began and so did the climbing. I made my way up the trail past the occasional wild flower to the Lower Waterfall Lookout. The waterfall would have been lovely, no doubt if there had been water to actually fall from it.

wpid-dscn0185-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The track split and I followed pressed on along the Yurrebilla. I was a short distance along it when I saw the girls head the other way. Silence! I continued up the hill and could begin to see Adelaide below me through the trees. I left the Bel Air National Park and headed along the road at the top of the ridge with the inkling of a view almost to the sea.

wpid-dscn0193-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The trail began to descend slowly until we came to a steep embankment, where it wound back and forth 27 times before reaching the road at the bottom.

wpid-dscn0194-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The road led around through The Brownhill Creek Recreation Park for a couple of kilometres, the flowers along the sides bright and colourful.

wpid-dscn0198-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I split away from the park and headed up a steep path alongside a fairly new driveway. As I arrived near the top, I looked back at the full view of Adelaide spread out below me to the sea.

wpid-dscn0218-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I disappeared back into the trees and descended before climbing another taller hill giving views to the north. I crossed a large conservation area and then a series of private paddocks, where the cows glared at me menacing before I arrived at a highway.

wpid-dscn0223-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The trail followed the road for 2km, on a steady climb, until I reached the Cleland Conservation Park. While I was not allowed to camp in this park, I located a fairly hidden spot and erected my pirate camp. The hiking motto: Take only photos, leave only footprints. Tomorrow when I break camp no-one will know I was here.

As the night fell, I cooked dinner and as the wind picked up, watched the lights of Adelaide begin to shine.

wpid-dscn0227-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

Day 2 – Cleland Conservation Park – Morialta Conservation Park

I was up early intent on packing before I was discovered. I’d heard an Asian man’s voice during the night, but when I went up to investigate, there was no-one there. And in the dark, the tent was not easily seen from anywhere near the road. After a quick breakfast, I headed off along the path.

It had rained briefly overnight and the wind had been rather intense. It was chilly walking through the park until the sun finally came over the hill. The trail was initially classic dirt/rocky trail but quickly joined another sealed path. The sealed path went for almost 2km and was where the majority of ‘wildlife’ could be seen, most of them jogging by in their tight leggings and tops. The trail split away from the sealed path and I left behind the ‘wildlife’ and anything else any interest. Beyond trees, the Cleland Conservation Park honestly didn’t have a lot going for it. There is a Wildlife Park in the middle, but I was intent on walking, so did not stop.

The Heysen Trail merged with the Yurrebilla Trail towards the end of the conservation park. The Heysen Trail is South Australia’s longest trail, running 1500km from Cape Jervis – where I’m catching the ferry to Kangaroo Island in a couple of days – right up towards Central Australia.

I left The Cleland Conservation Park late morning, and headed along a major road making my way past some nice properties with great views. The trail led me up past one of them to the top of a ridge and a fantastic view right across Adelaide with the sea beyond.

wpid-dscn0235-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I continued along the road and came to the top of the Horsnell Gully Conservation Park. I stopped for lunch before heading down the gully It reminded me of the Larapinta Trail on the thin rocky path, the hot air and the dry trees. Great! Near the bottom wildflowers were everywhere.

wpid-dscn0240-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The trail bottomed out at a dirt road which turned east past the ruins of the house belonging to the regions first settler. The road steadily climbed the hill and I pushed on section by section towards the summit. Just before the top, the trail left the road and walked briefly through the forest before arriving at a busy road. I crossed and dropped down to another slightly less busy road and it until I arrived at the township of Norton Summit. This was originally to have been my stopping place, but it was only early afternoon, and in South Australia, the sun doesn’t go down until after 8pm, later than the 5.30pm I’m used to from Queensland. I decided to stop for a rest at the Norton Summit Hotel. There should be a pub mid way in every multi-day hike!

After a plate of wedges and a beer or three I continued on. With 4 hours to sun down I headed down the road and past some old barns from the 1850s. I had a brief chat with a Kangaroo on the side of the road before finally arriving at the Morialta Conservation Park. I headed in and along a dirt road. I caught up to a Koala walking along the trail before the trail dropped into a gorge near a waterfall where the Heysen trail split off.

wpid-dscn0258-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I continued along the gorge near plentiful wild flowers and followed the path up the side of a hill, climbing to the viewpoint of a second waterfall.
wpid-dscn0278-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I continued on until I reached the Deep View Lookout, which gave views along the gorge to Adelaide and back almost to the waterfall.

wpid-dscn0268-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

After a 23km slog I was growing weary and set about locating a suitable site for my camp. I continued along the trail for another kilometre before seeing an open area of grass below. I went bush to discover the grassy area was fenced off. I found a spot just outside the fence and set up camp.

The wind was gusting very strongly, so I had to tie the tent off well. As darkness fell I watched the lights of Adelaide below light up. It’s funny how digital cameras make the lights of a city at night look like it’s on fire. As winds continued to buffet the tent, I went down to sleep.

wpid-dscn0282-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

Day 3 – Morialta Conservation Park to Ambers Gully

Happy Birthday to me!

I awoke early, had breakfast and began breaking camp. My intention was to finish the final 13.3km of the trail by lunchtime so I could do a few things before dinner.

As I was climbing back to the trail, I saw a group go past. I followed and they were an older group training for a walk in Tasmania. After a chat, I headed off, wanting to put some distance between us – they were very chatty, and I wanted to get back to the serenity of nature. The rocky trail met a wide dirt road and I motored along it in the sun. The trail dipped and turned back on itself on a grassy open area which would have been good for camping if I had continued walking…

wpid-dscn0283-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

I walked past the Fox Dam…

wpid-dscn0287-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

…and up the Fox Hill Track to the summit and then back down again to a major road. The Trail led me along the road for a couple of kilometres, with racing cyclists going past regularly. With the jagged sides of the Black Hill Conservation Park left to go, I prepared myself for a rather hard climb. I was not let down, I started easily at a quarry and worked my way up a gentle slope that turned steeper. A kilometre in, I met a guy coming down, who told me he was going to be coming back up as soon as he got to the bottom.

wpid-dscn0290-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

The road grew even steeper as I went, and in the morning heat, I pushed on. It was one of those mountains, just when you get to what looks like the top, it keeps going up. I came to a point where a wire grate had been laid to help vehicles up the steep climb and again,

wpid-dscn0293-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

when I got to the top I was expecting the summit, but it pushed on further at the same steepness. I was close to the summit when the guy who I’d passed going the other way caught me. He too was training for Tasmania and walked this same walk every Saturday and Sunday morning. We walked the last 3km together, most of it downhill along the road and then down Ambers Gully along a dirt track and finally past Ambers Ruins – another old house left from over 150 years before. We passed a waterfall that my companion had never seen with water on it.
wpid-dscn0294-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

It was not long before we arrived at the car park where The Pointy Brick had been waiting patiently for me.

wpid-dscn0296-2012-11-18-15-48.jpg

Overall, the Yurrebilla Trail is a great hike with excellent view across Adelaide and plentiful wildflowers. It’s clever how it connects the several parks together, although it did feel like I was walking along main roads a little too often. A hike I would recommend to anyone.

Tomorrow, I set off to Kangaroo Island…

The Lone Trail Wanderer.

The Plan

At the end of this week I will be leaving Queensland and embarking on the beginning of a crazy adventure. This will see me walking around the southern states of Australia for 3 months before winging it to South America for more adventures. The initial plan was to take 12 months, but why set a timeframe on adventure?

What follows is a break down of my plan for the next 3 months including locations and the activities I’ve planned for in those locations.

wpid-seaustralia2-2012-11-7-08-01.jpg

Nov 10-12
Brisbane to Adelaide – South Australia
Road Trip
2058km

Brisbane to Coonabarabran – 705km
Coonabarabran to Hay – 671km
Hay to Adelaide – 682km

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Nov 13-14
Explore Adelaide
Nov 15-17
Yurrebilla Trail – 3 day hike in Adelaide Hills
54Km

Nov 17 – Birthday
Nov 18-20
Kangaroo Island
Short hikes and Wildlife Sanctuary

Sunday November 18:

Drive: Adelaide to Cape Jervis 108km

Ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw

Penneshaw to Western Ki Caravan Park and Wildlife Reserve 138km

Nov 21 – 22
Drive: Cape Jervis to Naracoorte – 407km
Naracoorte Adventure Caving

Nov 22
Grampians Mountains Victoria
Naracoorte to Halls Gap – 218km
Stop off in Little Desert National Park

VICTORIA
Nov 23-28
Grampians National Park
Major Mitchell Plateau – 2 days
Mt Gar – Briggs Bluff Circuit – 2 days
Day walk – MacKenzie Falls section
Day walk – Halls Gap Section

Nov 29
Grampians National Park to Brisbane Ranges National Park – 196km
Road Trip
1 day

Nov 30-Dec 3
Brisbane Ranges National Park
Burchell Trail – 4 day hike

Dec 4
Brisbane Ranges to Melbourne – 62km
Road Trip
1 day

TASMANIA
Dec 7-8
Ferry to Tasmania and Drive to Cradle Mountain

Melbourne to Tasmania via ferry 459km
Devonport to Discovery Holiday Park – Cradle Mountain 80.5km

Dec 9
Bus from Cradle Mountain to Penguin the prepare for walk
1 day

Dec 10-18
Penguin Cradle trail
9 day hike

Dec 19-20
Rest days around Cradle Mountain with Numerous Day walks
Wild Cave Tours – Full Day Adventure Caving

Dec 21
Drop Vehicle off at Lake St Clair (214km) and bus back to Cradle Mountain

End Of Mayan Calendar

Dec 22-29
Overland Track: Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair
8 day hike
Christmas on the trail

Dec 30
Drive from Lake St Clair car park to Devonport then Ferry to Melbourne
Lake St Clair car park to Devonport 247km Road Trip
Tasmania to Melbourne via ferry 459km

Dec 31
NEW YEARS EVE
Melbourne

VICTORIA
Jan 1
Melbourne to Wilsons Promontory Road trip (223km)
1 day

Jan 2-4
Wilsons Promontory South End Hike – 3 days

Jan 5
Wilsons Promontory to Mitchell River National Park 240km
1 day

Mitchell River National Park to Buchan Caves 128km
Caving

Jan 6
Buchan to Alpine National Park 216km
1 day

Jan 7-9
Alpine National Park
Big River, Mt Bogong Circuit – 3 day Hike

Jan 10-13
Drive to Kosciuzko National Park
4 days with stop offs:
Mt Buffulo National Park
Chiltern-Mount Pilot National Park
Burrowa-Pine Mtn National Park

NEW SOUTH WALES
Jan 14-18
Mt Kosciuzko National Park
Yarrangobilly Caves
Bogong Wilderness – 2 day hike
Whites River Hut, Rolling Ground, Dicky Cooper Bogong– 2 day hike – modified
5 days

Jan 19-25
Jindabyne
On The Beach – Convention

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY (ACT)
Jan 25-28
Canberra
Cancon – Convention

Return to Brisbane
Jan 28 – 30 Canberra to Sydney via Flinders 315km – Stay with Family
Jan 31 Syndey to Port MacQuarrie 379km
Feb 1 Port MacQuarrie to Ballina 364km
Feb 2 Ballina to Brisbane 177km

Feb 2-5
QUEENSLAND
Brisbane

Feb 6
NEW ZEALAND
Auckland

Feb 21
SOUTH AMERICA
Buenos Aires – Argentina
Ushuaia – Argentina

What am I going to do when I am there???

Have the time of my life!!!!

See you on the trails!

The Lone Trail Wanderer.

Mt Barney – South-East Ridge to East Peak

Mt Barney is a pair of peaks on the border between Queensland and New South Wales. It’s the third tallest mountain in South-East Queensland. While it’s only 1354m above sea level – a molehill compared to many of the world’s mountains – it’s up there by Australia’s standards.

DSCN0029

For my last outing with my hiking group before I leave Queensland I arranged to climb the lesser known trail up Mt Barney’s South-East Ridge.  The South Ridge is the more common way up for this trip will be our descent.  The South-East Ridge is more difficult as it’s steeper and more exposed in several places.

Mt Barney – South East Ridge to South Ridge Circuit – 16.5km – 10 hours – difficulty: very hard.

The hike has an estimated 10-hour length, so I arranged for the group to meet at 6.30 a.m. outside the information booth in Rathdowney. With 7 of us in attendance, we drove to the car park at the base of the mountain. Thankfully the signs confirmed where we were supposed to be, as the mountain and most of the area was shrouded in low cloud. A bit of a contrast to the fact the temperature was supposed to rise to a muggy 30ºC today.

wpid-dscn0033-2012-10-23-08-02.jpg

The car park is about 3.5km from the beginning of the South-East Ridge trail, along a dirt road that works its way towards the mountain by crossing a couple of small hills. There is only one way to find the South-East trail, the letters SE carved into the trunk of a tree beneath a cross. What the cross means I’m not sure, perhaps an ominous message left by previous climbers?

DSCN0036

The thin dirt track began at a gentle slope but grew steadily steeper as it worked its way towards a rocky spire.

DSCN0038

At our backs as we climbed, the wedding cake topped Mt Lindsey and for much of the morning, cool breezes flowed from the east.

DSCN0058

The climb was anything but easy, and the 7 of us stopped regularly, usually when the ridge came to a flat area every 100m or so. The trail changed constantly, moving between dirt and root steps, to rocky steps cut from sheer gullies with plentiful handholds to smooth rock scrambling.

DSCN0045

At the top of the short flat areas we often looked down on something different, a sheer cliff face here, a long rock gully there or down on top of a mini forest. Each time we’d scramble up to the top of a ridge we’d find the great spire of the next one staring down at us. This gave the sense that the mountain just keeps going, on and on.  But eventually we climbed over a ridge to find we’d run out of mountain.  The top of the Eastern Peak is an open rocky area giving us a total 360º view.

DSCN0066

Unfortunately, because of the early November heat the views from the mountain were hazy. The heat also brought out many bugs that seemed to dance in the air around us.  They seemed quite attracted to the smell of our sunscreen as we reapplied.

DSCN0067

We stopped for lunch before heading down a vague trail that led towards the saddle between East and West peaks.  We climbed down flat rocks with the rocky spire of the more difficult West Peak ahead of us.

DSCN0069

Thankfully for grippy hiking boots the decent wasn’t difficult and we arrived at the saddle in short order. The saddle is a small rainforest and has a space set aside for camping.

DSCN0074

The South Ridge trail, also known as Peasant’s Ridge, was more difficult than the ascent of the South-East ridge. While it wasn’t as arduous, it was far more humid, with the trees hiding not only the sun, but easterly breeze as well.  This meant our descent was in the full humidity, so it was hot and uncomfortable.

DSCN0078

Eventually, we made it to the bottom and headed towards the car park. This was perhaps the hardest part of the day. After climbing the mountain, we were hot, tired and sore.  The four kilometres of dirt road just seemed to go on forever and the two small hills we’d climbed at the beginning of the day seemed each as tall as Mt Barney itself.

Finally, eight hours after we began we made it back to the vehicles, then it was back to Rathdowney for a well-earned beer.  An excellent final hike in Queensland.

The Lone Trail Wanderer.

Moran Falls and Lyrebird Lookout Circuits – Lamington National Park

This week I took my hiking group into the Green Mountains section of the Lamington National Park. I’ve done several walks in the Green Mountains including the Gold Coast Hinterland Great! Walk and the West Canungra Creek Circuit.  There are many walks in this national park and I was looking for a less intense one for the group.

Lamington National Park: Green Moutains section map

Map is owned by and used with courtesy of Queensland Government.  Please visit that site for more detailed information on hiking in this region.

Getting to the start of the hike was slow along the thin winding roads where some drivers could have gone faster if they got out and pushed. Eventually, my intrepid band of 14 set out along the road heading towards Moran Falls. This particular hike mixed a couple of circuits and included a section off-track.

IMG_1348

We left the road and headed along a cemented track down the hill for 2km to the Moran Falls Lookout. At the time of writing it hadn’t rained much in Queensland for a few months, so I was hoping there would be some falls to see. But as we came to a viewpoint across from the falls, we weren’t let down. The Moran Falls drop 80m to a small pool and was a pleasant view so early in the hike.

IMG_1345

From the falls, we continued around the top of the cliffs buried in trees to a bridge across the creek flowing to the waterfall.

IMG_1349

Off-track, we followed the creek…

wpid-img_1355-2012-10-15-07-55.jpg

…to an open area of rock at the top of the falls where we could stand on the rocky ledge looking down to the base of the waterfall and along the valley.

IMG_1351

In the background is the mountainous Scenic Rim including Mt Lindsey, Mt Barney and Mt Maroon. While we hadn’t walked far, we decided to stop for lunch.

IMG_1352

After lunch, we continued along a steep dirt track up a hill. This was perhaps the most difficult part of the day and during this time the group began to break into faster and smaller groups. We continued following the path along a ridge until it opened up on one side to an unnamed lookout.

IMG_1358

The views of the next ridge were great, as was the tree-lined valley between the two. We continued along the ridge until we came to the Balancing Rock. It had been cordoned off, so we resisted getting too close.

IMG_1360

Beside Balancing Rock the track continued along a more precarious part of the ridge. The group stopped at the lookout as two of us continued along the ridge to a protruding crag at the end called Castle Crag, with views in most directions.

IMG_1362

Returning to the group and we continued up another steep dirt road to a large clearing and along a short boardwalk to Moonlight Crag – a large wooden lookout giving us again great views of the mountain ranges and Castle Crag.

IMG_1372

Again we continued on, diving into the rainforest along the thin track marked by pink ribbons. As we headed in, the group broke in two, the fast and the slow. The front group walked on to a small grotto known as the Orchid Grove…

IMG_1375

…and then on again towards Lyrebird Lookout. Unfortunately, the sign to the lookout wasn’t prominent and we went past it to an open clearing that held the foundations of several buildings from decades before.  It was unclear what these buildings had once been used for. We waited for the other group but when they didn’t arrive, headed back along the trail, making our way through the rainforest to an overgrown track and on to a well attended track. A kilometre further on we arrived back at the start point and waited for the second group to arrive. They weren’t far behind, having found Lyrebird Lookout and returned a different way through the rainforest back to the start point.

Overall, the walk wasn’t a difficult one, but it was an adventure with some great views. Next week, however, I take a group to climb Mount Barney, the most difficult hike I plan to do in Queensland. It’s the third tallest mountain in South East Queenland – the tallest being Mt Superbus from our climb last week – and has a suggested time of 10 hours, 5 hours up and 5 hours down. I’m sure my legs won’t be thanking me, but the views should be fantastic…

The Trail Wanderer

Lincoln Wreck and Mt Superbus – Main Range National Park

In 1955, an RAAF Lincoln bomber flying a sick baby from Townsville to Brisbane went down in bad weather, crashing 50m from the top of Mt Superbus. The sole survivor of the crash was a ginger Kelpie.

This week, I took a small team from my hiking group to climb Mt Superbus and find that Lincoln Wreck. This hike wasn’t going to be easy and it wouldn’t help that it was forecast to be 33ºC and muggy or that all we had was a sketchy set of instructions.

As the trip to the beginning of the hike was a long way from our meeting place, I camped out in my van the night before. It certainly made the early start the next day a little easier.

The meeting point is the usual spot, Aratula BP, an hour outside of Brisbane. The hike starts a further 80km into the Main Range along a dirt road with a couple of stream crossings, which could have been more of a hazard if it had actually rained in Queensland over the past months. At one slightly deeper crossing, we were forced to leave half of the cars behind and pile into my van for the last several kilometres to a pleasant looking farm.

wpid-img_1311-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

Through the gate, we headed along a dirt road which we believed was the beginning of the hike. But after following the dirt road a couple of kilometres we finally discovered a National Park sign and a thin trail that was the actual start point.

wpid-img_1314-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

We walked through overgrown rainforest for about two kilometres following the thin trail, slowly working our way uphill. Sometimes we taller walkers were forced to crawl to follow the trail.

At some points along the hike we followed pink ribbons attached to trees, but mostly we followed the vague trail. About an hour in, however, the trail petered out and we were left without markers in the overgrown rainforest. And being immersed in trees, there were no reference points, not even the mountain we knew was there. Our instructions directed us south east, so with compasses out, we headed off-trail in search of a more obvious trail.

As we walked we found a downed tree across the gully like a bridge.

wpid-img_1315-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

We then climbed a wet gully, continuing south east. At the top we located the trail we’d been looking for and followed it. While unsure exactly where we were, we stopped for lunch before continuing along the trail, following it deeper into the rainforest.

The trail ended abruptly at a rocky gully and we discussed our options. It was 1.30pm with sunset due at 5.45pm. We’d been walking nearly 3 hours, so we had to judge how long push on before turning back, allowing ourselves time to return to the vehicles before sunset. After a search around the bottom of the gully, we located a tin arrow nailed to a tree, a marker mentioned in the instructions! We decided to follow the arrow and it led us up the rocky gully.

wpid-img_1320-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

The rocky gully climbed upwards rather steeply, occasionally forcing us to climb short cliffs and avoid both stinging nettles and Gympie Gympie plants, touching either is not suggested.  We scaled a large fallen tree trunk, which posed more of an issue for the shorter legged members of the group. At the top of one short cliff we located the bomber’s engine block.

wpid-img_1317-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

This prompted us to continue climbing.  A little further up we were distracted by some pink markers that led us nowhere, so we returned to the gully and continued climbing.

wpid-img_1324-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

Eventually after a series of intense scrambles, we found the bomber’s fuselage wreckage, a solitary wing and a mess of other metal.

wpid-img_1327-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

We stopped for a short break before beginning the long journey back to the vehicles.  We would have liked to have continued to the top of Superbus, but with the short winter days, it was best not to.

wpid-img_1322-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

The climb down was fairly straightforward and on arriving back at the tin arrow, we again located the main trail. We followed it back and discovered where we had lost the trail.

We arrived back at the vehicles as the sun began to set and drove back to Aratula hotel for the obligatory post hike beer.

wpid-img_1329-2012-10-9-07-41.jpg

Overall, while we started late and lost the trail going in, we found the wreck and got out before sunset. A great adventure and an intense hike with a good bunch of people.

The not so Lone Trail Wanderer